Saturday 15 March 2014

Crochet Curiosity.


To begin with, I thought it might be a good idea to look at a piece of textile art I particularly admire.
The piece I've picked is accessible here at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, NY.
It's an Irish lace (crochet) accessory set, and my favourite part has got to be the handkerchief border. It's so incredibly intricate, so tiny, yet at the same time, comfortingly handmade, and homely. The only pictures I can link to directly are huge, and hopefully Blogger will allow them to be zoomed into below. I'm including some details I've cropped myself from those images, just to give an idea of the scale, as the size of the objects is hard to judge from the shots, and uncertain in the museum entry.

As you can see, the pieces are based on plant life, and combine sprays of small flowers with leaves, ferns, and sprigs of what appears to be holly! The leaves curl over themselves, and the holly comes with 3D berries on their own stems. Perhaps it's an acquired taste, but I love Irish lace. It's a lot more lively and fun to make than other kinds - there are fewer rules as to what you can include, and how you can put the pieces together. I've never been able to tell, but I suppose with it's over-the-top approach, it could perhaps be called a little kitsch? But yes, I was going to show you the scale. Here's a close-up of the handkerchief edge.
 See that pin? That's the kind of scale we're talking about here!
I have myself completed a few examples of crochet lace, and one I'm particularly proud of is from a 1912 Irish pattern that I found browsing the beautiful examples accessible on the Antique Pattern Library. It didn't match the picture, but I'm very pleased with it anyway. It's a 'jabot', the ruffle often found on a shirt front, mostly at the collar level. Here's a picture of my own completed specimen.
It's tacked to some wool at the moment, to stretch and to show off the pattern. I remember when I finished it, I read back through the instructions, did a little multiplication, and found out that there were approximately 17,000 stitches in the piece. Bearing in mind, I did make it after much struggle, using a size 100 DMC Cordonnet thread (a little larger than the standard Gütermann machine cotton), and a size 0.6mm crochet hook. I know, I didn't believe they came in that size either. I have since been able to source a 0.4mm hook from a doll's house furniture maker. That'll be interesting. Anyway, here's a detail of my project for comparison.
I love the rule-breaking spirit of Irish Lace. It dares to go into three dimensions in a way that would even impress those early Venetians with their raised lace! This particular pattern even includes swinging bobbles tacked to a fancy ribbon, then sewn to the centre of the base:
You know, looking at this piece together with that handkerchief I so admire, I think my brilliant white thread may be a little too brilliant. I used a little more of that thread on two other projects - it really, really lasts. One was a pair of lace gloves, not yet finished, so pictures of them later, and one a watch pocket - again, I think this was a late 19th/early 20th century pattern, and again from the Pattern Library - I haven't yet got the jacket to attach it to, so for the moment, it's in two pieces on some foam!
As you can see from the edging, the back is at the top of this photo. I really like the effect of this fine crochet, and though when it is compared with true lace, it could be found lacking, I think it's a beautiful compromise between the fine arts of design and the 'cottage industry' of the home-made. Lovely.

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